Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
